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Lake Properties, Cape Town is a young and dynamic real estate agency located in Wynberg, Cape Town. We offer efficient and reliable service in the buying and selling of residential and commercial properties and vacant land in the Southern Suburbs including Bergvliet,Athlone,Claremont,Constantia,Diepriver,Heathfield,Kenilworth,Kenwyn,Kreupelbosch, Meadowridge,Mowbray,Newlands,Obervatory,Pinelands,Plumstead,Rondebosch, Rosebank, Tokia,Rondebosch East, Penlyn Estate, Lansdowne, Wynberg, Grassy Park, Steenberg, Retreat and surrounding areas . We also manage rental properties and secure suitably qualified tenants for property owners. Another growing extension to our portfolio of services is to find qualified buyers for business owners who want to sell businesses especially cafes, supermarkets and service stations. At Lake Properties we value our relationships with clients and aim to provide excellent service with integrity and professionalism, always acting in the best interest of both buyer and seller. Our rates are competitive without compromising quality and service. For our clients we do valuations at no charge

Wednesday, 1 October 2025

What action does the owner of a sectional-title unit take if he knows that he is about to default on his monthly levy




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Lake Properties

Defaulting on monthly levies in a sectional-title scheme is stressful — but it’s also very common, and there are clear steps you can take to protect yourself and your investment. Below I’ll explain, in plain language, what levies are, the legal framework, what your body corporate can and cannot do, and the practical actions you should take right now to avoid escalation. (I’ve sprinkled SEO phrases you can use: sectional title levies, levy arrears, default on levies, body corporate levy recovery, how to avoid levy default.)


1) Quick background — what levies are and your legal duty

Levies (also called contributions) are the monthly payments owners must make to the body corporate to pay for insurance, security, maintenance, utilities for common areas, the admin fund and reserve fund. Under the Sectional Titles Schemes Management Act (STSMA) the body corporate is required to determine and collect contributions from owners — so paying levies isn’t optional.


2) If you see a shortfall coming: immediate, practical steps

  1. Call or email the trustees/managing agent straight away. Explain the situation honestly — many bodies corporate prefer a negotiated payment plan to expensive legal action.
  2. Check your levy statement. Confirm the amount, make sure there are no mistakes (wrong charges, duplicated items). The STSMA and its management rules require bodies corporate to certify levy amounts and show payment status — use that to check accuracy.
  3. Ask for a payment plan or an Acknowledgement of Debt (AOD). Propose a realistic split (small immediate payment + instalments). Trustees commonly accept structured repayment if you keep up with current levies.
  4. If you’re renting the unit, consider asking the tenant to pay rent directly into a blocked account or agree on a temporary arrangement — in some cases CSOS remedies can direct rental payments to the body corporate if necessary.

3) What the body corporate must do before it can collect (and your rights)

Bodies corporate must follow the Prescribed Management Rules (PMRs) — particularly the notice procedures (PMR 25) — when raising levies and collecting arrears. That includes issuing notices showing amounts due, the due date, interest and follow-up final notices. If you dispute a charge, you can refer the dispute to CSOS (Community Schemes Ombud Service) for mediation/adjudication. Don’t ignore notices — but do check them for accuracy and procedure compliance.


4) What the body corporate can do if you don’t act

If you fail to pay and don’t engage constructively, the usual escalation path is: final written demand → instruction to attorneys → summons for payment → judgment → execution (attachment of movable property and possibly sale in execution). The body corporate can recover interest, collection and legal costs if properly incurred. In practice, this can result in a lien-like enforcement and — in severe cases — sale in execution of your unit if other creditors (including bondholders) allow it.

Two important legal limits to note:

  • The body corporate may not lawfully cut off essential services or forcibly evict you without a court order — doing so would be unlawful. If anyone tries to disconnect water/electricity as pressure tactics, get legal advice and report it.
  • If you sell, the conveyancer will normally require a levy-clearance certificate or confirm no arrears before registration — the Sectional Titles framework allows the body corporate to require proof that levy arrears are settled before transfer will be registered. That gives the body corporate a powerful lever at the point of sale.

5) If you think the levy or the collection is unfair or incorrect

  • Dispute the levy or charges in writing to trustees immediately and ask for proof (minutes / resolution raising the levy, budget, supporting invoices).
  • Refer unresolved disputes to CSOS — CSOS offers a relatively low-cost dispute process for community schemes (mediation and adjudication). CSOS can issue orders which are enforceable. Use CSOS if you genuinely dispute the validity, calculation, or the way the body corporate has handled collection.

6) Practical money options to consider (don’t delay)

  • Temporary budgeting: cut non-essentials for a short period and direct any freed cash to levies. Levies affect communal services and property value — letting them fall behind often costs more later.
  • Short-term loan / debt consolidation: speak to your bank or a reputable financial adviser about a short bridge loan or restructuring — make sure the cost doesn’t exceed the legal and interest charges you’re avoiding.
  • Sell or refinance: if the debt is unsustainable, selling or refinancing the bond may be a last-resort option — but remember the levy clearance requirement on transfer (see above).

7) What happens if the body corporate sues — the scary but real outcomes

If collection proceeds to court and judgment is granted, the body corporate can execute against movable and immovable assets to satisfy the debt. That can mean garnishee or attachment orders and ultimately sale in execution. This is why early communication and a written repayment plan are worth their weight in gold — legal fees and interest usually push the total owed far higher than the original missed levy.


8) Checklist: what to do right now

  • Call/email trustees/managing agent and ask for a payment plan.
  • Get an up-to-date levy statement and check every charge.
  • If you can, make a small immediate payment to show good faith.
  • If you dispute amounts, lodge that dispute in writing and be ready to take it to CSOS.
  • If the body corporate has already instructed attorneys, consult a lawyer or debt counsellor — don’t ignore legal papers.

Lake Properties Pro-Tip

If you see a levy default coming, act early and get everything in writing. A quick honest conversation + a written repayment plan will almost always beat the cost and stress of debt collection and court action. Keep copies of every levy statement, notice, and agreement — and if you need help negotiating with your body corporate, get a professional (managing agent, lawyer or Lake Properties) to assist and ensure the terms are documented.

Lake Properties                      Lake Properties



Tuesday, 30 September 2025

The Trojon Horse massacre in Thornton Road



Lake Properties                       Lake Properties

Lake Properties                     Lake Properties

What led to it  

By 1985, South Africa was in a State of Emergency. Student protests, school boycotts and street demonstrations against apartheid were taking place almost daily, especially in Cape Town’s coloured townships such as Athlone.

  • On 15 October 1985, young people gathered along Thornton Road, near Alexander Sinton High School, to protest.
  • They were throwing stones at passing vehicles — a fairly common form of township resistance.
  • The apartheid state wanted to crush these protests and intimidate communities. Instead of dispersing the crowds openly, police devised a deceptive ambush tactic.

The “Trojan Horse” tactic

The plan was chillingly simple:

  • A railway truck drove slowly into the area. On the back of the truck were large wooden crates, apparently carrying goods.
  • Hidden inside those crates were armed policemen from the South African Police and Railway Police.
  • Once protesters came close and began throwing stones, the police suddenly burst out from the crates and opened fire with live ammunition.

This ambush became known as the Trojan Horse Massacre because the truck, like the Greek myth, concealed attackers who struck once they were inside enemy territory.


The shooting itself

When the shooting erupted:

  • Three young people were killed instantly:
    • Jonathan Claasen (21)
    • Shaun Magmoed (15)
    • Michael Miranda (11) – who wasn’t even part of the protest, he was simply in the wrong place at the wrong time.
  • Many others were wounded, including schoolchildren.

What made the event especially notorious was that it was captured on film by international television crews (notably CBS News). The footage of police bursting from crates and gunning down students spread worldwide, causing outrage and embarrassment for the apartheid government.


Who was responsible

  • The South African Police (SAP) and Railway Police, acting as part of a Joint Security Task Force, carried out the operation.
  • Orders for the “Trojan Horse” decoy tactic came from higher command levels — not just the men on the truck.
  • The Truth and Reconciliation Commission (TRC) later confirmed that this was a deliberate counter-insurgency operation, not a spontaneous reaction to violence.

Aftermath: Inquest & prosecutions

The families of the victims, supported by human rights lawyers, fought hard for justice:

  1. Inquest (1988):

    • A judge found that the police had acted “unreasonably” in the way they used lethal force.
    • Despite this, the Attorney-General initially refused to prosecute.
  2. Private prosecution (1989):

    • Families brought their own case against 13 policemen.
    • The trial was long and difficult, but in December 1989 all accused were acquitted.
  3. TRC hearings (1996–98):

    • The TRC revisited the case.
    • Victims’ families testified about their loss.
    • Security force members admitted aspects of the operation but largely evaded personal accountability.
    • No one was ever successfully punished for the killings.

Why it matters

  • The Trojan Horse Massacre became a symbol of apartheid’s brutality: using deception and live fire against schoolchildren.
  • It highlighted the impunity of security forces: even with video evidence and an inquest ruling, the courts of the time would not convict.
  • Today, memorials and annual commemorations keep the memory alive. The TRC officially recorded it as a gross violation of human rights.

In summary:
The police shot at students in Thornton Road because they were using an ambush tactic designed to punish and terrify protesting youth. The apartheid security forces were directly responsible, but despite inquests and private prosecutions, nobody was ever convicted.

Lake Properties                    Lake Properties

Monday, 29 September 2025

What are the advantages of trying to pay your mortgage bond earlier off



Lake Properties                        Lake Properties

Lake Properties                    Lake Properties

Why paying your bond early helps (thoroughly explained)

1) The big, obvious win — you pay much less interest

Mortgages are amortised so early payments cover mostly interest; as the balance drops more of each payment reduces capital. Every rand you pay early reduces the base on which future interest is calculated — that’s a compounding win.

Example (real numbers so you can feel the scale):

  • Loan: R1,500,000
  • Interest: 9% p.a. (compounded monthly)
  • Term: 20 years (240 months)

Monthly payment for this loan = R13,495.89.
Total paid over 20 years = R3,239,013.44.
Total interest paid if you make only required payments = R1,739,013.44.

Now two common “early pay” strategies and what they actually achieve:

A — Add R2,000 extra each month to the standard payment:

  • New payoff time ≈ 174 months (14.5 years) instead of 240 months — you finish ~5.5 years sooner.
  • Total interest paid ≈ R1,196,284.74.
  • Interest saved ≈ R542,728.70.

B — Make a R200,000 lump prepayment after 5 years:

  • You’ll shorten the overall term to about 193 months (≈16.1 years) — save 47 months (~3.9 years).
  • Total interest paid ≈ R1,104,706.64.
  • Interest saved ≈ R634,306.80.

(Those examples show how both small regular extras and a single lump sum can cut huge sums from interest.)

2) You gain flexibility & optionality faster

Faster equity growth gives you options:

  • Refinance at better rates or borrow a smaller amount if you need a loan later.
  • Sell with a larger cash buffer.
  • Use equity to invest or fund life events — but only if you want to, not because you’re forced to.

3) Lower sensitivity to rate rises and income shocks

If rates rise (or your bond has a variable rate), a smaller outstanding balance reduces how much a rate increase raises your monthly interest or shortens the margin for error when your income drops.

4) Better retirement and life planning

No bond payment in retirement = predictable, lower fixed expenses and less stress on pension income. That makes retirement planning simpler and often more secure.

5) Psychological and lifestyle value

There’s real peace-of-mind value in owning your home sooner — less daily stress, fewer decisions constrained by a monthly bond, and a stronger sense of financial freedom. That’s intangible but important.

Important trade-offs and checks (don’t skip these)

Paying the bond early isn’t always automatically the best move — you must compare the opportunity cost:

  1. Prepayment penalties and admin rules

    • Some bonds have fees or limits on how much you can repay early, or require admin to apply extras to principal. Always confirm the lender’s terms.
  2. Opportunity cost of other investments

    • If you can plausibly earn a higher after-tax, after-fees return by investing (or by paying off higher-interest debt first), investing that money might make more financial sense than prepaying the bond.
    • A simple rule of thumb: if your mortgage interest rate is higher than the after-tax return you reasonably expect from alternate investments, prepaying is attractive.
  3. Liquidity / emergency fund

    • Don’t deplete your emergency savings. Bonds are long-term — if you drain liquid cash to prepay and then need money, you may have to borrow at higher rates.
  4. Other debts

    • Prioritise paying off higher-interest unsecured debts (credit cards, personal loans) before accelerating a low-rate mortgage.
  5. Tax considerations / investment property

    • Tax rules differ by country. In many places, interest on owner-occupied mortgages is not tax-deductible but interest on investment properties is. Check local tax rules before making decisions dependent on tax deductions.
  6. If you’re fixed-rate

    • Fixed-rate bonds sometimes have stronger penalties for early repayment — check whether prepaying is cheap or expensive for your contract.

Practical tactics — how to prepay smartly

  • Confirm with your bond originator:

    1. Are there prepayment penalties?
    2. Will extra payments be applied to principal (not simply held as credit against future instalments)?
    3. Can you make partial prepayments, and how often?
  • Tactics you can use

    • Add a small extra each month (e.g., R1,000–R3,000) — consistent and painless.
    • Make bi-weekly / fortnightly payments if your bank allows it (it’s a small effective extra each year).
    • Use windfalls (bonuses, tax refunds, inheritance) as lump-sum prepayments — these have a big impact.
    • Round up your monthly payment (e.g., always pay R14,000 instead of R13,495.89).
    • Split windfalls — e.g., 60% to bond, 40% to investments — to get the best of both worlds.
  • Record-keeping

    • Keep receipts and check annual statements to ensure extra amounts are reducing principal. Mistakes happen; check.

A short decision checklist

  • Do you have a 3–6 month emergency fund? ✅
  • Do you have higher-interest debts to clear first? ✅
  • Have you compared the mortgage rate to expected after-tax investment returns? ✅
  • Have you confirmed prepayment rules with your lender? ✅

If you can answer “yes” to these and you’re comfortable with the reduced liquidity, accelerating the bond often wins financially and emotionally.


Lake Properties Pro-Tip:
Before you throw money at your bond, call your bond originator and ask two direct questions: (1) “Are there any prepayment penalties or annual caps on extra payments?” and (2) “Will extra payments go straight to principal, and can I redraw on them later if needed?” Then use windfalls (bonuses, tax refunds) to cut principal, keep a 3–6 month emergency fund untouched, and consider splitting other surplus cash between an extra bond payment and a higher-yield investment — that way you save interest and keep upside potential.

If you know of anyone who is thinking of selling or buying property,please call me 

Russell 

Lake Properties 

083 624 7129 

www.lakeproperties.co.za info@lakeproperties.co.za 

Lake Properties                       Lake Properties       

Saturday, 27 September 2025

2 x 3 bedroom semi-detached houses for sale in Rylands



2 x 3 bedroom semi in Rylands 
2 x Large lounge
2 x 3 bedroom 
2 x bathroom and toilet 
2 x kitchen 
2 x outside toilets
496 sqm
R3 200 000
Call 083 624 7129

How mortgage bonds work? Initially when you take out the bond till when you are finished after 20 years. How does the bank calculate its interest on a mortgage bond



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Lake Properties                    Lake Properties

A mortgage bond (home loan) is a loan from a bank to you so you can buy a home. The bank registers a bond (a mortgage) over the property at the Deeds Office — that means the bank has security: if you don’t pay, the bank can enforce the bond. You repay the loan over an agreed term (commonly 20 years) by monthly instalments that cover both interest and capital (the amount you borrowed).

2) The players & steps at the start

  • You (the borrower): apply, provide income docs, ID, bank statements, etc.
  • Bank: does affordability checks, valuation, and approves the loan and interest rate.
  • Conveyancer: completes the legal work, registers the bond at the Deeds Office and charges registration fees.
  • Insurers: the bank will require building insurance and often life/credit protection insurance.

3) How interest is calculated — the core idea

  • Most residential bonds use a declining-balance method: interest is charged on the outstanding loan balance.
  • Interest rate can be variable (prime-linked) or fixed for a period. With variable/prime-linked loans the bank can change the interest rate when prime moves.
  • Banks usually calculate interest daily on the outstanding balance and post/charge it monthly (so interest accrues daily but you see it on the monthly statement).

Example of daily interest to give the idea: If your outstanding balance is R1,000,000 and the annual rate is 11%:

  • Daily interest ≈ 1,000,000 × 0.11 / 365 ≈ R301.37 per day (approx).

4) The monthly instalment (the math — step by step)

Banks commonly set a fixed monthly payment that amortises the loan over the chosen term. The formula for a fixed monthly repayment is:


\text{Monthly payment }(M) = \frac{r \times L}{1 - (1+r)^{-n}}

Where:

  • = loan amount (principal)
  • = monthly interest rate = (annual rate ÷ 12)
  • = number of months (term × 12)

Let’s do a concrete, digit-by-digit example so you can see every step:

Assume:

  • Loan
  • Annual interest = 11% (0.11)
  • Term = 20 years → months

Step 1 — monthly rate:


r = 0.11 \div 12 = 0.009166666666666667

Step 2 — compute and its reciprocal:


(1+r)^{240} \approx 8.935015349171 \quad\Rightarrow\quad (1+r)^{-240} \approx 0.111919225756

Step 3 — denominator:


1 - (1+r)^{-n} = 1 - 0.111919225756 = 0.888080774244

Step 4 — numerator:


r \times L = 0.009166666666666667 \times 1{,}000{,}000 = 9{,}166.666666666667

Step 5 — monthly payment:


M = \frac{9{,}166.666666666667}{0.888080774244} \approx \mathbf{R10{,}321.88}

So your monthly payment would be ≈ R10,321.88.

5) How each monthly payment is split (amortisation)

Each monthly payment = interest portion + capital portion.

Month 1 example:

  • Opening balance: R1,000,000
  • Interest for month 1 = balance × r = 1,000,000 × 0.0091666667 ≈ R9,166.67
  • Payment = R10,321.88 → capital repaid = 10,321.88 − 9,166.67 = R1,155.22
  • Closing balance after month 1 = 1,000,000 − 1,155.22 = R998,844.78

Because interest is largest when the balance is highest, in the early years most of your payment goes to interest; over time the interest portion shrinks and more of each instalment reduces capital.

6) First 12 months snapshot (rounded to 2 decimals)

Month Interest Capital repaid Closing balance
1 9,166.67 1,155.22 998,844.78
2 9,156.08 1,165.81 997,678.98
3 9,145.39 1,176.49 996,502.48
4 9,134.61 1,187.28 995,315.20
5 9,123.72 1,198.16 994,117.04
6 9,112.74 1,209.14 992,907.90
7 9,101.66 1,220.23 991,687.67
8 9,090.47 1,231.41 990,456.26
9 9,079.18 1,242.70 989,213.56
10 9,067.79 1,254.09 987,959.46
11 9,056.30 1,265.59 986,693.87
12 9,044.69 1,277.19 985,416.68

(You can see interest slowly falls and capital portion slowly rises month by month.)

7) Total cost over 20 years (same example)

  • Monthly payment ≈ R10,321.88
  • Total paid over 240 months = 10,321.88 × 240 ≈ R2,477,252.14
  • Total interest paid ≈ R1,477,252.14 (that’s more than the original R1,000,000 — the cost of borrowing)

8) Real-world ways to cut interest (with numbers)

Small changes can make a huge difference.

A) Add R1,000 extra per month (consistent)

  • New monthly payment = R11,321.88
  • Loan is repaid in 182 months (≈ 15 years 2 months) instead of 240 months.
  • Total interest paid ≈ R1,058,249.68
  • Interest saved ≈ R419,002.46
  • Time saved ≈ 58 months (≈ 4 years 10 months)

B) One-off lump sum of R100,000 at the start (then keep the original monthly payment)

  • New effective principal = R900,000; monthly payment kept at R10,321.88
  • Loan repaid in 176 months (≈ 14 years 8 months)
  • Total interest paid ≈ R916,453.63
  • Interest saved ≈ R560,798.51
  • Time saved ≈ 64 months (≈ 5 years 4 months)

Takeaway: both steady small extras and occasional lump sums reduce interest massively. (Numbers above use the same 11% example throughout.)

9) Other practical things banks do / clauses to watch for

  • Variable vs fixed rate clauses: variable (prime-linked) means your rate can move; some lenders change your monthly instalment when prime changes, others may keep instalment and change amortisation period — check your contract.
  • Prepayment/early-settlement rules: some banks permit extra repayments penalty-free; some have admin fees or require notice for large lump sums. Check the bond contract.
  • Bond initiation and registration costs: conveyancer fees, Deeds Office fees, valuation fees, bond initiation/admin fee — these are paid at the start or added to the loan.
  • Insurance requirements: banks will usually require building insurance and often life/credit cover — these costs sit on top of the monthly bond repayment.
  • Missed payments / arrears: if you fall behind, the bank will charge arrear interest and fees and may ultimately proceed with legal collection and sale in execution; always speak to your bank early if you have trouble.
  • Bond cancellation: when you finish the last payment, the bank issues a cancellation which the conveyancer registers at the Deeds Office so title is free of mortgage — there are small cancellation fees.

10) Useful checklist — what to check in your bond papers

  • Is the rate prime-linked or fixed, and for how long?
  • How will the bank react to a prime change (monthly payment change or term change)?
  • Are extra repayments allowed? Any penalties or notice periods?
  • What fees are charged at initiation and monthly admin fees?
  • What insurance is mandatory and what does it cost?
  • What are the exact settlement procedures if you sell or refinance?

11) High-impact borrower moves

  • Make regular small extra payments (even R500–R1,000) — compounds to big savings.
  • Save and use lump-sum payments (bonuses, tax refunds, inheritances) to reduce principal.
  • Refinance/switch to a lower rate if fees are reasonable (do the math: interest saved vs switching costs).
  • Keep an emergency fund so you won’t miss payments if your income dips.

Lake Properties Pro-Tip

If you can, set up your bank account so that any extra you pay into the bond is clearly marked as capital reduction (not just an early payment). Small extras are powerful: R1,000 extra monthly on a R1m bond at ~11% slashes nearly R420k in interest and cuts almost 5 years off a 20-year term. Always ask your bank in writing how they apply extra payments (do they reduce term or next instalments?) — that tiny bit of clarity saves headaches later.

Lake Properties                     Lake Properties



Friday, 26 September 2025

When is a 30 year bond more advantages than a 20 year bond.




Lake Properties

  • Monthly payment: longer term → lower monthly repayment because the same principal is spread over more months.
  • Total interest paid: longer term → much more interest paid over the life of the loan, because interest accrues for more months.
  • Equity build: shorter term → faster principal repayment, so you build equity faster with a 20-year bond.
  • Payment composition: with longer terms early payments are mostly interest; with shorter terms a larger share goes to principal earlier.

Concrete example (so the trade-off is obvious)

Example assumptions (illustrative only):
Loan amount = R1,000,000 (one million rand)
Interest rate (scenario A) = 10.00% p.a. (repayment loan)
Compare: 20-year (240 months) vs 30-year (360 months) at the same interest rate.

Using the standard mortgage formula (monthly rate = annual ÷ 12; monthly payment M = P·[r(1+r)^n]/[(1+r)^n−1]):

At 10.00% p.a.

  • 20-year (240 months):
    • Monthly payment ≈ R9,650.22
    • Total interest over life ≈ R1,316,051.95
    • Total paid (principal + interest) ≈ R2,316,051.95
  • 30-year (360 months):
    • Monthly payment ≈ R8,775.72
    • Total interest over life ≈ R2,159,257.65
    • Total paid ≈ R3,159,257.65

So: choosing 30 years saves you ≈ R874.50 per month but costs you about R843,205.70 extra in interest over the life of the loan (with the same interest rate).

If the 30-year loan also carries a slightly higher rate (common in the market), e.g. 30-year at 10.5% vs 20-year at 10%, the monthly gap shrinks and the extra interest rises even more:

  • 30-year at 10.5% → monthly ≈ R9,147.39 (so only ~R502.82 per month cheaper than the 20-yr at 10%), and total interest ≈ R2,293,061.46 (roughly R977,009.51 more than the 20-yr at 10%).

How equity and early repayments compare (same 10% example)

  • After 1 year of payments:
    • 20-year: you’ve paid down principal ≈ R16,547.38.
    • 30-year: you’ve paid down principal ≈ R5,558.79.
      So the 20-year builds ~3× more equity in year one.
  • After 5 years: principal paid ≈ R101,975.57 (20-yr) vs R34,256.80 (30-yr).

This shows how much slower principal reduction is on a 30-year bond — early years are dominated by interest.


When a 30-year bond makes sense

  1. Tight monthly cash flow / uncertain income. If your budget is tight or your income can drop (commission work, contract work, business risk), a lower monthly payment reduces default risk and stress.
  2. You’ll use the freed cash for higher-return opportunities. If you reliably invest the monthly saving and your after-tax return is higher than the mortgage interest you’re avoiding, the longer term can make sense (but this is an active investing decision and not guaranteed).
  3. You need flexibility early on — e.g., young buyers who expect income to grow, parents paying school fees, or someone building a business.
  4. You want the option to pay extra but not be forced to. A 30-yr loan lets you make small payments when cash is tight and bigger ones when you can — many people like that optionality.
  5. Short holding horizon for the property. If you plan to sell within a few years, the total-interest penalty of 30 years matters less because you won’t be on the full-term schedule.
  6. Keeping emergency cash. If choosing 20 years would drain reserves or leave you without an emergency fund, pick 30 years and keep liquidity.

When a 20-year bond is usually better

  • You can comfortably meet the higher monthly payments.
  • Your priority is paying less interest and owning the home sooner.
  • You value building equity fast (helps with future refinancing or borrowing against the property).
  • You don’t have higher-return uses for the extra monthly cash — the math often favors faster repayment.

Ways to get the best of both worlds

  • Take a 30-year repayment bond but make extra payments whenever possible. That way you keep low required payments but reduce the term when cash allows. (Check with your bank about prepayment rules/penalties.)
  • Use an offset account (if offered) or a separate savings account: keep cash close to the bond and lower interest effectively by offsetting balances.
  • Make “bonus” or yearly lump payments from raises/bonuses — many people treat their raises as a source for extra bond payments rather than more lifestyle inflation.
  • If you’re disciplined, invest the monthly saving (the R874.50 in the example) into a low-cost, diversified portfolio — but only if you’re confident about returns and risk tolerances. Compare expected after-tax returns vs mortgage rate.
  • Refinance later: start with a 30-year now for flexibility; if income and rates change, refinance into a shorter term later.

Risks & practical checks

  • Interest rate differences matter. Lenders often charge a slightly higher rate for longer terms — this reduces the monthly advantage and increases life-time interest.
  • Prepayment penalties / administration fees — check your bank’s rules before committing.
  • Behavioral risk: having a lower compulsory payment can tempt some people to spend the difference rather than save or invest it. If you’re not disciplined, a 20-year can be safer for the “forced savings” effect.
  • Inflation & income growth: if you expect inflation and rising income over decades, the real burden of a long loan falls, which can favor 30 years. But that’s contingent on future events.

Quick decision checklist

Ask yourself (honest answers):

  • Do I need the lower monthly payment now to avoid financial stress? (Yes → 30-yr looks better.)
  • Can I absorb the higher monthly payment without risking my emergency fund? (Yes → 20-yr looks better.)
  • Do I have higher-return uses for the monthly saving and the discipline to invest them? (Yes → 30-yr can make sense.)
  • Will I likely sell the property soon? (Soon → 30-yr’s extra interest matters less.)
  • Does the lender charge a higher rate for 30 years or prepayment penalties? (If yes, factor that in.)

Lake Properties Pro-Tip: If you’re unsure, pick flexibility: take the 30-year bond only if your bank allows penalty-free extra repayments (or has an offset), and then treat the mortgage like a 20-year by paying the equivalent 20-year monthly amount whenever you can. That gives you the safety of a low required payment and the option to own your home faster — without burning your emergency fund. 

If you know of anyone who is thinking of selling or buying property,please call me 

Lake Properties 

083 624 7129 

www.lakeproperties.co.za 

info@lakeproperties.co.za 

Lake Properties                     Lake Properties

House for sale in Grassy Park

Thursday, 25 September 2025

What are the advantages and disadvantages of switching your mortgage bond to another bank.




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Lake Properties                    Lake Properties  
  1. Lower interest = real savings.
    A lower interest rate reduces your monthly repayment and the total interest paid over the life of the bond.

  2. Immediate monthly cashflow relief.
    Lower repayments free up money for living costs, investments or paying down higher-cost debt.

  3. Better product features & flexibility.
    You may gain access to benefits like free extra repayments, offset/savings accounts, redraw facilities, or more flexible payment dates.

  4. Consolidate / clean up finances.
    Refinancing can let you roll expensive short-term debt (credit cards, personal loans) into the mortgage at a lower rate (but be careful — you extend the term).

  5. Access to equity (“cash-out” refinancing).
    If your property value has risen, you may be able to increase the loan (and take cash out) for renovations, an investment, or debt consolidation.

  6. Service and digital experience.
    You might prefer another bank’s online tools, customer service or speed of handling bond queries.

⚠️ Disadvantages — the downside (expanded)

  1. Upfront switching costs (real money).
    Typical costs include: bond cancellation fees, new bond registration costs, conveyancer/attorney fees, bank admin fees, bank valuation fee, and possible early settlement penalties from your current lender. These all add up and reduce net savings.

  2. Breakage/early termination penalties (if fixed rate).
    If you’re on a fixed-rate product, leaving early can trigger significant breakage fees—sometimes larger than you expect.

  3. Paperwork, checks and delay.
    You’ll need payslips, proof of ID, bank statements, the new lender will do a credit check and property valuation — it’s effectively a new bond application.

  4. Possible reset of loan term (costly).
    If you extend the loan term to lower the monthly amount, you often pay far more interest over the longer term — a short-term gain for a long-term cost.

  5. Approval is not guaranteed.
    The new bank must be satisfied with your credit, affordability and the property valuation. If they decline you, you’ve still incurred valuation or admin costs.

  6. If you plan to sell soon, you may never recoup costs.
    If your break-even period is longer than the time you intend to keep the property, switching is usually not worth it.

How to decide — step-by-step (do this before signing anything)

  1. Get the redemption figure from your current bank.
    Ask for the outstanding balance + exact cancellation fees and any early settlement penalties. You need the final figure they’ll require.

  2. Get a full written quote from the new bank.
    The quote must include new monthly repayment, interest rate (fixed/variable), valuation fee, attorney fees, admin fees and any other one-off charges.

  3. Calculate monthly savings and break-even months.

    • Monthly saving = (current monthly repayment) − (new monthly repayment).
    • Break-even months = (total switching costs) / (monthly saving).
      If break-even is shorter than the time you expect to stay in the house, that’s a good sign.
  4. Compare total interest over the remaining term.
    Don’t only look at monthly payments — calculate total interest you’ll pay at each rate over the remaining term (or the new term if you change it).

  5. Check non-monetary items.
    Contract flexibility, ability to make extra payments, how interest is applied, insurance/cover changes, online banking quality, and customer service.

  6. Negotiate with your current bank first.
    Ask them to match the new offer. Often they will reduce the rate without you having to pay switching costs.

  7. Factor in life plans.
    Are you selling or moving in two years? Are you planning big changes (start a business, have children)? If short horizon, be conservative.

Practical checklist — what to request & prepare

  • Statement of outstanding balance and full redemption figure (including cancellation fees).
  • Recent bond repayment schedule (how many months left, term).
  • New bank’s written quote (full list of fees + monthly repayment).
  • Documentation: ID, 3 latest payslips, 3-6 months bank statements, proof of address, latest bond statement.
  • Ask for a copy of the new loan agreement to read early.
  • Confirm whether your home and life insurance transfers automatically or need reissue.
  • Check whether the new bank requires a new valuation and who pays for it.
  • Ask whether the new repayment includes interest-only period options, extra payments and whether there are penalties.

Sample negotiation text you can use

“Hi [Bank name], I’ve received a formal offer from [competitor bank] with an interest rate of X% and total switching costs of R[xx]. I’d prefer to stay with [current bank]. Can you match or beat this rate, or offer a lower admin fee to avoid switching? Please send me your best written offer.”
(Short, polite, and gives them a concrete target to match.)

Worked examples (so you can see the math)

Below are illustrative examples (use these as templates for your own numbers). These are examples only — plug in your actual outstanding balance, rates and fees.

Scenario A — clear win (example numbers):

  • Outstanding balance: R1,200,000
  • Remaining term: 20 years (240 months)
  • Current rate: 9.5% p.a. → Current monthly repayment ≈ R11,185.57
  • New rate: 8.0% p.a. → New monthly repayment ≈ R10,037.28
  • Monthly saving ≈ R1,148.29
  • Switching costs (estimate) = R25,000 (attorney + valuation + admin)
  • Break-even months = 25,000 ÷ 1,148.29 ≈ 22 months (≈ 1 year 10 months)
  • Total interest remaining at 9.5% ≈ R1,484,538; at 8.0% ≈ R1,208,947Net saving over term after switching cost ≈ R250,590.

Interpretation: if these numbers reflect your case and you plan to stay more than ~22 months, switching looks attractive.

Sensitivity checks (why these matter):

  • If switching costs were R40,000 instead, break-even becomes ≈ 35 months.
  • If the new rate was only 8.8% (smaller improvement), monthly saving drops to ≈ R543 and break-even with R25,000 jumps to about 46 months (nearly 4 years).
  • If you only have 5 years left on the bond, the monthly saving is smaller and you might not recoup costs — switching becomes less attractive.

(Those precise numbers above are calculated from the standard mortgage formula: M = P × r / (1 − (1 + r)^−n), where r is monthly rate and n number of months.)

Things people often forget (gotchas)

  • Valuation fee — the new bank may require a fresh valuation. This cost is sometimes refundable if the bond registers.
  • Insurance changes — changing banks can change the way house or life cover is handled; double-check continuity.
  • Prepayment/excess payment rules — some banks limit extra repayments or charge fees to make big extra payments in early years.
  • Credit checks — a hard credit enquiry can slightly affect your credit score. Multiple credit applications in a short period can be harmful.
  • If you refinance to borrow more (cash out), your monthly repayment may increase and you may pay more interest overall. Don’t treat the mortgage as free money.
  • Contract language — read the fine print about penalty events, what counts as default, and whether you’re tied to bundled products.

When it’s usually worth switching

  • The new rate is materially lower (not just a decimal point) and your expected stay > break-even time.
  • You can secure useful features (offset account, extra payments) that align with your plans.
  • You don’t have large fixed-rate breakage penalties.
  • You’re consolidating very expensive debt into mortgage debt and understand the long-term implications.

When it’s usually not worth it

  • You plan to sell or move within a few years and break-even is longer than your stay.
  • You’re on a fixed product with heavy breakage penalties.
  • The monthly saving is small relative to switching costs (e.g., you’d save R200–R300/month but pay R30,000 in fees).
  • You need to take extra cash out that wipes out the savings.

Quick decision formula (make it simple)

  1. Get all costs (old bank cancellation + new bank fees) → Total switching cost.
  2. Get current monthly payment and new monthly payment → Monthly saving.
  3. Break-even months = Total switching cost ÷ Monthly saving.
  4. If break-even < planned time to stay, consider switching; otherwise don’t.

Final practical tips

  • Always ask your current lender to match the best offer — often it’s cheapest to stay and keep the relationship.
  • Get every fee in writing from the new bank before you proceed.
  • Do the math with exact numbers (redemption figure, exact fees) — approximate guesses can mislead.
  • If in doubt, run a worst-case (higher fees, smaller rate drop) sensitivity check to see how robust the decision is.

Lake Properties Pro-Tip: Don’t let a “nice sounding” lower headline rate be the only factor — always do a side-by-side total cost comparison (monthly payment, total interest over remaining years and switching fees). If the break-even point is longer than the time you realistically expect to live in the property, walk away — otherwise negotiate hard with your current bank first.

 Lake Properties                     Lake Properties  

Wednesday, 24 September 2025

What 20 questions do you ask the seller of a potential house.


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Lake Properties                     Lake Properties

1. Why are you selling?

This is the ice-breaker. If the seller is relocating for work, downsizing, or moving closer to family, it’s usually straightforward. But if they mention “maintenance is too much” or “the area isn’t what it used to be,” that could hint at hidden problems (crime, noise, upkeep).
👉 Red flag: vague or defensive answers.


2. How long have you owned the property?

Longer ownership means a deeper history you can probe. Short ownership (less than 2 years) may indicate they discovered issues quickly and want out.
👉 Pro-Tip inside this: compare their answer with the title deed history.


3. How long has the property been on the market and have you had any offers?

A house sitting for 6+ months without serious offers might be overpriced or have underlying issues. If there were offers that fell through, ask why — finance rejection? Bad inspection?


4. What’s your asking price and how flexible are you?

This tests motivation. A seller who says, “we’re open to reasonable offers” is more negotiable than one saying, “our price is firm.” Use this info when structuring your bid.


5. What’s included in the sale?

Fixtures, appliances, pool pumps, irrigation systems, blinds, chandeliers — sellers sometimes remove items you assumed were included. Always pin this down in writing.


6. Is the property vacant or occupied?

If vacant, you can take transfer quicker. If tenants live there, you inherit their lease — you’ll need to check the contract and rental terms.


7. Are there any known defects, leaks, or maintenance issues?

This is where honesty is tested. Sellers in South Africa are legally required to disclose defects, but some downplay them. Get specifics: roof leaks, damp patches, faulty wiring.


8. Have you had any insurance claims?

A house with multiple insurance claims (burst geyser, roof damage, fire) might have weak infrastructure or recurring risks. Ask for proof from their insurer if possible.


9. Have you done any renovations or additions?

This uncovers upgrades (new kitchen, added bedroom, extended patio). Ask for exact years. Renovations older than 10 years may soon need updating again.


10. Were renovations permitted and do you have approved plans?

Illegal structures (like an unapproved granny flat) can cause major transfer headaches and even demolition orders. Always ask for stamped municipal plans.


11. When were major systems last serviced/replaced?

Roofs, geysers, plumbing, and electrical boards all have lifespans. A geyser older than 10 years might fail soon; wiring older than 20 years may need upgrading. This gives you bargaining power on price.


12. Any history of damp, mould, or drainage problems?

These are costly silent killers. Smell closets, check corners, and ask about water pooling during rains. Damp is hard to fix and can harm health.


13. Any pest issues?

Termites, wood-borer, and rodents can quietly eat through the structure. If they say it’s been treated, ask for the pest control certificate.


14. Any structural issues or cracks?

Not all cracks are serious — some are cosmetic. But wide diagonal cracks or sloping floors suggest foundation movement. Always follow up with an engineer’s report if you suspect structural risk.


15. Are the boundaries and title clear?

Sometimes a neighbour’s wall or fence is built on your land. Servitudes (e.g., “municipality can dig on your property for water pipes”) limit your control. Request the title deed diagram.


16. Any disputes with neighbours, HOAs, or municipality?

Noise, pets, unpaid levies, or zoning fights can poison the experience of living there. Sellers may brush it off, but listen closely to their tone.


17. Any outstanding municipal rates, taxes, or levies?

In South Africa, you can’t transfer a property unless these are settled, but delays happen if there are arrears. Better to ask early and avoid transfer surprises.


18. Any upcoming projects or zoning changes nearby?

That quiet street could become a busy road if a new development is approved. Sellers sometimes know, sometimes pretend not to — verify with the municipality too.


19. Do you have recent inspection reports, utility bills, and disclosures?

Bills show you the real cost of living there — water, electricity, levies. A disclosure form forces the seller to list known defects on paper.


20. What’s your preferred sale process and timeline?

This manages expectations. If they want a 30-day transfer but your bond approval will take 60 days, you need to negotiate.


🎯 Lake Properties Pro-Tip

Asking questions is only half the job — verify everything. Sellers may forget, understate, or gloss over details. Always:

  • Match their answers with official documents (title deeds, municipal plans, compliance certificates).
  • Put all promises in the Offer to Purchase — verbal agreements don’t count.
  • Hire your own independent inspector, even if the house “looks fine.”

👉 The smartest buyers treat the seller’s answers as a first filter, not the final truth.

Lake Properties                       Lake Properties

Tuesday, 23 September 2025

What if on party to the sale dies before the process is completed

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Lake Properties                      Lake Properties

Here’s a more detailed explanation of what happens in South Africa when one party dies before a property transfer is completed, broken down by stages of the process:


1. A Deed of Sale Has Been Signed but Transfer Not Yet Finalised

This is the most common scenario. Here's what happens depending on which party dies:


If the Seller Dies:

  • The signed Deed of Sale (Offer to Purchase) is still valid.
  • The property now falls into the deceased seller’s estate.
  • The executor of the estate, once appointed by the Master of the High Court, is responsible for completing the transaction.
  • The buyer must wait until the executor is officially empowered to act (via Letters of Executorship).
  • The property transfer will be registered in the buyer’s name, but only once the Master has approved and the executor signs the necessary transfer documents.

Possible Delays:

  • Estate reporting process (usually 4–8 weeks or more).
  • Delay in appointing executor.
  • Clearance certificates from SARS and municipality may be delayed if the estate is complex.

If the Buyer Dies:

  • The buyer’s rights under the sale agreement are now held by their estate.
  • The executor of the deceased buyer’s estate must assess whether to proceed with the purchase (e.g., does the estate have funds, is the purchase still desirable?).
  • If the executor decides to proceed, the property will be transferred either:
    • Directly to a named heir or beneficiary, or
    • Into the estate, then later transferred or sold again.

Important:

  • If the sale is a cash transaction and payment has been made, the executor has a legal and practical reason to proceed.
  • If the purchase was to be financed with a bond, and the bond wasn’t finalized before death, the deal may collapse unless the estate can fund it.

2. No Deed of Sale Was Signed Before Death

In this case, there is no legally binding contract. Death cancels any informal or verbal arrangements. The executor of the deceased’s estate is free to sell (or not sell) the property or decide whether to proceed with a new sale.


3. Deceased Was Married

South African marital regimes can affect property transfer after death:

  • In Community of Property: The surviving spouse owns half the estate and must be involved in the transaction.
  • Out of Community of Property: The deceased’s estate owns the entire property (or their share), and only the executor can proceed.
  • With Accrual: Depends on the value of each estate at death; might require accrual calculation before transfer.

4. Other Practical Considerations

  • Transfer Duty: Payable by the buyer, regardless of whether they are alive or deceased.
  • Conveyancer Role: Must work closely with the executor and Master’s Office.
  • Wills and Beneficiaries: May determine whether heirs are entitled to inherit or sell the property if no transfer occurs.

A problem property doesn’t have to be a deal-breaker. With the right strategy, these homes can turn into excellent investments. Always request a detailed inspection report, verify municipal approvals, and lean on an experienced estate agent. At Lake Properties, we specialize in identifying potential issues early and guiding buyers and sellers to successful, stress-free transactions. Remember: informed decisions make all the difference.

If you know of anyone who is thinking of selling or buying property,in Cape Town,please call me 

Russell Heynes 

Lake Properties 

083 624 7129

www.lakeproperties.co.za 

info@lakeproperties.co.za 

Lake Properties                       Lake Properties

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